Thursday, June 14, 2012

Denali: Camp 2 to Camp 3

Camp 2 at 11,200 ft.
Motorcycle Hill behind camp
We learned of the first climber fatality of the season while here.  Apparently a climber on the ridge at 16,200 ft. was not clipped into protection nor did he have his backpack clipped into his harness.  While making a cache, his backpack started to tumble down the slope and he tried to grab it or go after it, and unfortunately he tumbled down the slope with it.  There were two fatalities on the mountain while we were there and that was definitely an eerie feeling.  It reminded us that safety was the number one goal and that the trip was not a success until we had all returned in one piece.  Other immediate dangers involved are different levels of altitude sickness.  We heard about a climber that developed HAPE (high altitude pulmonary edema) at camp 2, 11,200 ft.  That is a life threatening illness and is very scary for all involved.  I'm not sure of the outcome of this case but I heard that the person couldn't even walk after the onset worsened.
Close-up of Motorcycle Hill.

Well constructed igloo in camp
A random camp with nice snow walls.  It is a guided expedition....the blue tent is their cook tent.
Here, I am gathering clean snow in the green trash bag for melting to make water.  It takes a LOT of snow to make water and we were drinking a LOT of water.  Staying well hydrated is one of the best ways to acclimatize and hope not to get AMS (acute mountain sickness).   In our normal lives, we try to drink at least 2 liters of water a day.  On the mountain, we were trying to drink between 4 and 5 liters of water a day.  Thats A LOT!  A lot of snow and a lot of fuel to melt it all.  It's definitely a chore.
Typical dinner....pasta (rotini here) with alfredo and pesto sauce mix and dehydrated veggies.  We even brought dehydrated mix for added calories and creaminess in our dishes.  And we always added some cheese!  Actually, our favorite dinner was the only pre-packaged dehydrated meal we brought....pad thai!  Thanks to Andrew's mom who found that delicious treat for us, we ate it three times!
Butter and spices, bowls and nalgenes.

Camp 2 bathroom with a view
Our CMC which had a piece of tape on it with the name Garret written across it.  Garret was the person who had the pleasure of sterilizing it after the last use.  It provided a more personal relationship with "the can."  "gotta go talk to Garret"...."going to visit Garret"...etc!
The poop crevasse on the other side of camp.
Making a carry up to the cache site below the 14K camp (camp 3) at 13,500 ft.  Geared up and ready.  We always went through our checklist with each other to make sure all things were as they should be to travel safely....harness tied and double backed, carabiners locked with rope in one and pursick and pack leash in the other, ascender girth hitched, chest harness on and rope in.....
We cached our snowshoes at camp 2 and wore crampons the rest of the way up.
Looking back at camp 2
From camp 2 to camp 3, you travel 2.75 miles while gaining 3200 ft.
Route going right over crevasses that somebody else has already punched through!  I would always wave my hands in the air to let the the guys know to brace themselves and be extra ready because I was stepping over a crevasse.  Then we would just move quickly and step softly over the area without stopping.

Traversing Windy Corner....named for the hurricane force winds that are known to sweep through here.  Again, we were so lucky with the weather.  We passed around Windy Corner three times (2 going up and once going down) and only one time was it a little windy.  Many expeditions have been turned around here and been forced to wait at the camp above or below for better weather.
Our sleds were pretty heavy here and with the slope of the traverse and gravity it took complete concentration on our foot placement to ensure we didn't slide down the mountain.  Traverses are Andrew's least favorite parts, which Arnaud had forgotten while crossing this or didn't think this one was much to fret over.  During the traverse, Araund yelled "stop," so I stopped.  Andrew didn't hear him and just noticed the rope was not moving forward anymore.  After a few moments he asked if I was ok and inquired why I stopped.  When I said Araund yelled stop, he quickly and loudly responded (unfavorably), "My gosh!  This better not be for a picture!"  He, nor I, did not like being stopped there, but I was secretly hoping Arnaud was taking a picture (because I couldn't do it myself).  Arnaud was indeed taking a picture, but never said a word at the time.  A moment or two later he yelled "ok"  meaning "ready" and we moved on.  That night he confessed he had been taking a picture. We all had a good laugh about the situation and enjoyed seeing the picture!  Thanks Arnaud!
Cache site at 13,500 ft.

Going back down around Windy Corner after making a cache.  You can see several big and small crevasses in the photo above.  One smaller one (just big enough for a sled) that we had to step over just as the traverse levels out caught Andrew and Arnaud's sled both times coming up.  Somehow I was able to step higher up on the trail and pull mine over just fast enough that it didn't fall in, but the guys weren't so lucky.  Both of them had their sleds fall into the crevasse and get wedged.  After a few hard tugs it would come out.  Also, Windy Corner was the only place rock fall was a considerable danger, so we wore helmets while crossing through there.
Traffic jam. This was taken from the top of Motorcycle Hill the next day while moving to camp 3.  
We moved in the clouds on and off this day.  In the photo above a couple of teams (little black dots) are making their way up to Windy Corner.
During the final push to camp 3 between 13,500 and 14,200.

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